Filipinas: a natureza surpreendente de Bohol

Tem das mais belas praias do mundo, mas também rios encantadores, lagos com tonalidades surpreendentes, paisagens naturais verdejantes de cortar a respiração e um fundo do mar que é um verdadeiro santuário para milhares de espécies. As Filipinas, com um total de 7107 ilhas, têm uma riqueza natural enorme e merecem uma visita demorada.
Este país asiático, ainda desconhecido por muitos, possui uma das mais altas taxas de descoberta de novas espécies de seres vivos do mundo. Só na última década, os cientistas identificaram 16 espécies de mamíferos. Por aqui, encontramos, por exemplo, cobras, como as pítons, crocodilos de água salgada e a maior águia do mundo, a águia das Filipinas, considerada a ave símbolo nacional.
Por estar próxima da Linha do Equador, esta região é propensa a terramotos e tufões, além de ter diversos vulcões ativos. Mas a abundância de recursos naturais torna este território rico em múltiplas paisagens dignas de ilustrar os postais mais belos do mundo. Juntamos a estas imagens do paraíso os sorrisos simples, mas sinceros, das suas gentes, e a vontade de explorar este país é imediata. A diversidade é tão grande que a maior dificuldade é escolher que locais visitar. Foi também a minha.
Quase 500 anos depois do português Fernão de Magalhães ter descoberto as Filipinas ao serviço de Espanha, em 1521, cheguei a Manila, a caótica capital, situada a Norte, no grupo de ilhas conhecido por Luzon. Por aqui, permaneci apenas o tempo necessário para apanhar o voo que me levaria para a primeira parte desta aventura: a ilha Bohol, a 10ª maior ilha do país, na região central de Visayas.
Por ser um território tão grande e tão disperso, as deslocações entre ilhas são mais rápidas de avião. Existem várias companhias que fazem estes voos domésticos. Para a primeira viagem, que me levaria até Tagbilaran, escolhi a Air Asia. A praia de Alona, na vizinha ilha de Panglao, é das mais famosas da região, conhecida pelo seu extenso areal branco e pelas suas águas límpidas e cristalinas. É, sem dúvida, um belo local para retemperar forças antes de fazer um périplo pelo que há de mais interessante na zona.
A natureza é tão enigmática quanto encantadora e dá-nos a possibilidade de ver formas especiais e únicas que transformam cada lugar num sítio mágico. É o que acontece em Bohol, onde regresso para ver as Colinas de Chocolate. São quase 1500 colinas arredondadas que conseguimos ver de um miradouro, depois de subirmos cerca de 200 degraus. Durante a época de Verão, entre Março e Maio, chove pouco e os seus cumes ficam acastanhados, assemelhando-se a uma tablete de chocolate gigante.


Num dia dedicado à natureza, que começou num jardim zoológico com borboletas, cobras, crocodilos e águias, entre outros animais exóticos, o ponto alto foi a visita à Fundação Filipina do Tarsier, ou társio, um dos mais pequenos primatas do mundo, do tamanho da mão de um adulto, que se destaca pelos seus olhos grandes, assim como as suas patas.


Este carnívoro, que se alimenta essencialmente de insetos, gosta de dormir durante o dia e é uma espécie em vias de extinção. Não fosse o amor de Carlito Pizarras por estes pequenos animais e poderiam já ter desaparecido da ilha. Em 1996, havia menos de dez exemplares. Atualmente, são mais de cem espalhados pela floresta da fundação, por onde existem trilhos específicos para os turistas percorrerem e fotografarem à distância o pequeno primata.
A viagem inclui um almoço a bordo de um barco transformado em restaurante no rio Loboc, que nasce no meio da ilha, na vila que lhe empresta o nome. Um percurso pelo silêncio da bucólica ilha, interrompido de vez em quando pelas crianças que brincam livremente nas suas margens e se atiram à água com divertidos saltos sincronizados e pelas mulheres que lavam ali a sua roupa. Noutro barco que se aproxima, há um espetáculo de música e dança, proporcionado pelas gentes locais para levar um pouco da sua cultura aos inúmeros turistas, que diariamente percorrem este rio.
Depois de uma viagem ao centro da ilha, é altura de partir de barco à procura de golfinhos e, de seguida, conhecer as pequenas ilhas Balicasag e Virgem. Este é o programa de uma das excursões mais vendidas na praia de Alona, depois da que tem como destino as Colinas de Chocolate e o Tarsier.
O encontro fica marcado para o dia seguinte às 6.30 horas. Os golfinhos, ao que parece, gostam de passear bem cedo, obrigando os turistas a levantar-se com o nascer do dia. Mas o esforço é rapidamente recompensado. Depois de uma viagem de cerca de 30 minutos num dos típicos barcos filipinos, eis que os simpáticos mamíferos se deixam fotografar.
Não muito longe dali, a ilha de Balicasag é a paragem seguinte. A poucos metros da bonita e tranquila praia, existem vários recifes e corais coloridos que acolhem inúmeras espécies de peixes. Esta é a excursão ideal para os amantes de snorkeling, que são surpreendidos com imagens únicas de um fundo do mar preservado e intacto.
Minutos depois, vários olhares ficam presos a uma bonita e imponente tartaruga, mas esta rapidamente se aventura por águas mais profundas para longe de dezenas de curiosos. Ainda é frequente vê-las nestas águas das Filipinas, mas a verdade é que as tartarugas são o alvo de muitos traficantes e, por isso, algumas espécies estão em risco de extinção.
A viagem termina na “Virgin Island” ou Ilha Virgem, uma espécie de língua de areia com alguma vegetação no meio do oceano. A água é límpida e de um verde claro que hipnotiza o olhar, onde quer que esteja o nosso horizonte. Sem profundidade, em alguns sítios está abaixo dos joelhos, basta olhar para baixo para vermos com nitidez diversas estrelas do mar, de várias cores e de vários tamanhos.
Regresso a Alona para assistir a um espetáculo imperdível, o pôr do sol, um ritual que junta milhares de turistas à beira mar para passear, conversar, ouvir música, comer num dos muitos restaurantes em cima da praia ou simplesmente apreciar a bonita paisagem. É aqui que termino a primeira parte desta viagem às Filipinas.

Créditos da imagem: Helena Simão
Este texto integra a rubrica “Viajar” do portal SAPO Viagens.

Arquivo

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